Rabbit Care

Rabbits make intelligent, friendly and quiet house pets. The average life span for a bunny is 7-10 years with records up to 15 years of age being reported. The following information is designed to help you take the best care of your pet and enjoy a happy, healthy life together

Diet

Hay - Hay is the most important part of the house rabbit diet. hay should be provided at all times in your pets cage. hay provides fiber which keeps the digestive tract working normally. The type of hay preferred is GRASS hay, which can include timothy, brome, meadow, oat (this is a type of grass, not the oats you eat in cereal), and Bermuda. Alfalfa hay is not preferred due to its higher calorie and calcium content. However, in situations where grass hay is not available, alfalfa may be used temporarily.

Hay is abrasive and takes longer to break down than a pellet (which is made of  compressed fine particles) so there is beneficial tooth wear. Teeth grow throughout a rabbit's life and overgrown molars and incisors can be a problem if not kept in wear by the diet.

Fresh Food

Fresh food is the second most important part of the house rabbit diet, These foods should be given daily. Their digestive tract functions best when it has a high level of fiber, which helps to maintain the normal intestinal motility. When using greens for the first time, start with romaine, kale or mustard greens and then add a new food every few days.

 Feed a minimum of 3 leafy greens daily. The more variety the better for the rabbit not only in nutrition, but also in recreational appeal due to different tastes and textures of foods.

The danger of feeding green foods to rabbits as stated in many older books on rabbits is not true of rabbits eating hay.

Once your pet is established on hay and greens , you can feed you can feed essentially unlimited amounts of these foods. Feed about 1 tightly packed cup per 4 lbs of body weight. Make sure to wash all fresh foods thoroughly before using. Because fresh vegetables are not as concentrated in nutrients per pound as the dry hay, you should not depend on greens only to maintain your pets weight.

Remember! Rabbits must have hay as well as greens in their diet!! Some examples of food items you can feed your pet:

Carrot tops, beet tops, dandelion greens and flowers (pesticide free!) kale, collard greens, escarole, romaine lettuce (no light leaf or iceberg lettuce) chickweed, plantain, endive, green, red, or yellow peppers, swiss chard, parsley, clover, cabbage, mesclan green mixes, peppermint leaves,broccoli (don't forget the leaves), carrot and pea pods, (the flat edible kind), brussell sprouts, basil, borage, wheat grass,raspberry leaves, radicchio, bok choy and escarole. 

Packages of premixed salad are usually not sufficient for the bunny's needs as they contain a lot of lower nutrient lettuces such as iceberg. Use them no more than a third of the daily amount fed.

Pellets

Rabbit pellets are the least important part of the house rabbit diet. Commercial rabbit pellets are high in calories, low in volume and require little chewing, which can be a problem in an animal designed to eat large volumes of  tough high fiber foods. Alfalfa-based rabbit pellets were designed for the rapid growth in food or laboratory rabbits that usually do not live out a full life span.

In the house rabbit, the feeding of pellets may lead to problems which results from the high concentration of carbohydrates, low fiber, high protein, fat and high calcium levels in the food. In many cases it is recommended that pellets not be fed to adult rabbits at all.

 Do not become alarmed because you pet will be able to receive all the nutrients from the hay and fresh foods that you feed.

Rabbits are very efficient at making their own vitamins and minerals in the form of cecotropes,  which they produce from their hindgut and eat and re-digest.

Treat foods should be kept under 2 tablespoons per 2  lbs. of body weight daily, you can give the following foods:

Strawberries, papaya, pineapple, apple , pear, melon, raspberries, blueberries, mango, cactus fruit, persimmon, peach, or tomato. Bananas and grapes can be "addicting" and it is  recommended to only feed as a very occasional treat. Dried fruits can be used as an alternative to the fresh fruit listed above use half the amount.

Water should always be available, and changed daily. A dirty water container can be a breeding ground for bacteria. Either use a water bottle or a heavy bowl, weighted or secured to the side of the cage so that it does not tip over.

Avoid the use of water medications or other additives because your pet may not drink sufficient quantities of water if the taste is altered. Note that rabbits get most of their fluid requirements from the leafy greens and may drink very little other water.

Night Droppings (cecotroper)

It may seem strange  to list this as a part of the diet, but these "special droppings" known as cecotropes are an essential part of your pets nutrition. During certain parts of the day, usually 4-6 hours after eating, you may observe your pet licking his or her anal area and eating some of the droppings in the process.

Cecotropes are softer, greener,  and have a stronger odor than do the normal dry droppings and come directly from the cecum which is part of the digestive system where fermentation of food takes place. In the cecum the digestible portion of the diet is broken down by bacteria, which produce fatty acids, amino acids (proteins), vitamins and minerals.

After eating these nutrition rich droppings your pet will redistribute the material and extract all the necessary nutrients. This habit is normal and important to your pet.

 Housing

We highly recommend that rabbits not be kept in a cage all time  Rabbits that caged continually run a higher risk of disease and are prone to obesity due to lack of exercise. In addition, they may develop behavioral problems such as excessive chewing or aggression (out of boredom or "stress").

An excellent set-up is to have a cage or partially enclosed house area as a comfortable "home-base", which they can enter and leave as they wish throughout the day, surrounded by a dog exercise pen for them to roam. We recommend the pen be at least 3 feet high for most rabbits, and 4 feet high for the larger breeds.

A solid floored area for the pen is needed to prevent sore hocks and to provide an are for resting. We have found that synthetic fleece works well for the resting area

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Litter Box

Rabbits can be litter box trained relatively easily. Initially you will need to keep your rabbit in a small area, either in a cage or a blocked off area of the room, and place the litter box in the corner; try to pick the same corner that your rabbit has already used for the bathroom. make sure the sides of the box are low enough so your pet can get in and out easily. Some people have found it useful to put hay in the box to encourage defecation in the box (they usually pass stool while they are eating.

 You can reward your pet with one of the treat foods mentioned above whenever he or she uses the box successfully. Do not punish your pet while in the litter box.

Pelleted paper or other organic products make the best bedding. These products are non-toxic and digestible if eaten; easier to clean up than shavings or clay litter, odor control is better. In addition they draw moisture away from the rabbit's feet should he like to sit in the litter box.

Temperature

Rabbits should be kept in the coolest and least humid area of the house. Studies have shown that bunnies kept in war, humid environments with poor air circulation have a dramatic increase in the incidence of respiratory disease over those animals that are kept in cool, dry environments with good air circulation.

 Damp basements are one of the worst places to keep your pet. If your rabbit must be kept in the basement, invest in a dehumidifier and a fan to keep out dampness and improve air circulation. The optimum temperature for a bunny is 60- 70 degrees F. When the temperature gets into the middle 70's, you may see an increase in drooling, and nasal discharge. if temperatures reach the upper 80's and beyond, and especially with high humidity, there is a potential for fatal heat stroke.

 On very hot days, if air conditioning is not available you can leave a plastic milk jug filled with frozen water in the cage as a portable "air conditioner".

Handling

There are a number of ways to pick up a rabbit depending on size and temperament. Be sure to always support the hindquarters to prevent serious spinal injuries. The rabbit's backbone  is fragile and can easily fracture if the hind legs are allowed to dangle and the animal gives a strong kick.

 Never pick up a bunny by it's ears; it is painful! It is better to grasp the loose skin over the shoulders or scoop up under the chest, and then place your hand under the back legs to lift your bunny off the floor. Work near the floor when you are first learning how to handle your rabbit so that if he jumps out of your arms he won't have very far to go.

Medical Problems

Females -  A leading cause of death in adult female rabbit is a cancer of the uterus (adenocarcinoma). It is entirely preventable by having your pet spayed between 5 months and 2 years of age.

Males - Some male bunnies may become extremely aggressive when they reach sexual maturity. They may spray urine outside of the regular litter box area. The urine may develop a very strong and unpleasant odor due to the presence of male hormones, and intact males may not groom effectively, developing stained and messy tail areas. Aggression toward other rabbits can result in serious bite wounds. The best solution is castration. This procedure is recommended anytime after 4 months of age.

Dental Disease

All rabbit teeth are open-rooted and grow continuously throughout their life. Rabbits were designed to eat tough fiberous foods that would wear down teeth of the type humans, dogs or cats have. The teeth wear not only on the foods but also on one another. If the teeth are not lined up properly, or if the diet does not provide sufficient opportunities for chewing they will overgrow.

Some teeth can grow so long that they penetrate the tissues of the mouth, including the palate, cheek or tongue. Roots can overgrow and penetrate the jawbone.

These conditions lead to extreme pain and result in other signs such as nasal and eye discharge, drooling and the inability to eat.  If the incisors become overgrown, they need to be rimmed every 6-8 weeks. You cannot do this yourself. You must make an appointment with your veterinarian.

Loss Of Appetite

There are many reasons why a rabbit will lose their appetite. The most common cause is pain. This can be anywhere in the body but the two most frequently encountered causes of pain are dental disease and gastrointestinal disease. The most common cause for gastrointestinal pain in our experience is a diet low in fiber and high in calories. This combination can lead to obesity, fatty liver disease, sluggish movement of the intestinal tract, accumulation of a dry impacted hairball/ food ball in the stomach and excessive gas in the intestines, which is uncomfortable. When the rabbit stops eating, the intestinal tract stops moving and the problem escalates.

Loss of appetite in a rabbit that is otherwise acting normally is something that should be investigated within 48 hours. Rabbits rapidly develop a deteriorating condition of the liver when they go without food for long periods. If prolonged, there maybe no way to reverse the process. Early diagnosis and treatment of appetite loss is crucial.

A loss of appetite accompanied by obvious lethargy or depression should be investigated immediately, and should be considered an emergency. The classic sign for rabbits developing a gastrointestinal obstruction is that they are fine one day and suddenly stop producing stools and are very depressed the next.

Pasteurellosis - A large percentage of  rabbits harbor a bacterium in their upper respiratory tract. This does not cause disease ini bunnies with a healthy immune system. However, under certain stress situations, such as poor diet, high environmental temperatures, poor air circulation overcrowding, etc., this bacterium can reproduce rapidly and cause potentially serious illness.

Diarrhea - True diarrhea is not common in the rabbit. This is a situation where all stools being passed are in a liquid form. This is a very serious condition and should be seen by a veterinarian immediately. Some gastrointestinal conditions that result in diarrhea can be fatal within 24 hours.

Different is an intermittant passing of soft liquid or pudding like stools. in between the rabbit will also pass normal stools. The soft stools may be seen at certain times of the day (many time overnight), may have a strong odor and accumulate in the rabbit's fur.

The liquid stools are often the cecotropes that are unformed . There are a variety of reasons for this condition, but by far the most common reason is the lack of sufficient fiber in the diet and obesity.

 Eliminating pellets and feeding good quality grass hay for several weeks may clear up the problem. Consult your veterinarian if your pet has this condition before making any drastic changes in the diet.

Urinary Disease - The urine color of a pet rabbit can range from light yellow to dark orange in color. It may be clear to so cloudy as to almost appear white. These colors and clarity changes are due to the production of pigments in the urine called porphyrins ( which can be related also to plant pigments and/or the rabbit's emotional state) and calcium precipitates.

The calcium that is taken in through the diet is excreted through the urine; therefore the urine may appear cloudier if the rabbit is eating a high calcium food such as pellet, alfalfa hay or certain greens.

Rabbits can also develop urinary tract disease such as bladder and kidney stones, infections or cancer. Signs of these diseases may include: weight loss, poor appetite, frequent small urination, blood-tinged or painful urination.

Female rabbits with uterine disease may also produce what appears to be bloody urine, but is what is actually blood being discharged from the reproductive tract just after urination.

A good publication that is well written is the House Rabbit Journal. Write the the House Rabbit Society, 1615 Encinal Avenue, Alameda, CA. 94501 or call 510-521-4631.

Above all, enjoy your pet and give him or her your love and affection. Your pet deserves it and will repay you with years of enjoyment and the opportunity to see life at a slower, calmer, "bunny pace."

Dental disease in the pet rabbit remains one of the most common problems seen by veterinarians. In recent years we have come to a better understanding of causes, prevention and treatment of these diseases.

ANATOMY OF RABBIT TEETH

Rabbits are herbivores that are designed to eat a diet comprised of a wide variety of vegetation from succulent to tough, dry material. All of the rabbit's teeth grow continuously throughout its life to compensate for the pronounced wear created by long periods of chewing on abrasive foods. Rabbits have a total of 6 incisors (the teeth you see in the front), 2 sets upper and one set lower, and no canine teeth. The cheek teeth consist of 3 upper premolars and 3 upper molars and 2 lower premolars and 3 lower molars on each side. The teeth are worn down at a rate of approximately 3mm per week. The normal structure of the jaw AT REST allows the incisors to touch but not the cheek teeth. A rabbit can use its incisors to cut food material without interference from the cheek teeth. Food is taken into the mouth with the prehensile (“grasping”) lips and incisors and then moved via the tongue to the cheek teeth. When ready to chew, the rabbit changes the position of the jaw and brings the cheek teeth into contact. At this time the incisors are no longer in contact allowing the rabbit to chew without interference. Rabbits chew their food with a wide side to side movement. A normal shape to the jaw is very important to the normal wearing of the teeth. It is important to note that dental disease can start in either the cheek teeth or incisors, but over time will ultimately involve both sets of teeth. The lesson here is that we must always be concerned with the health of ALL the teeth, even when we initially see disease in only a few.

The top part of the tooth that is visible to us is called the crown and the bottom is called the root. The root is only visible with the aid of a x-ray. Improper wear of a rabbit's tooth can lead to overgrowth or crooked growth of either the crown or the root. Overgrown crowns are generally easy to see, but overgrown roots can be overlooked. Severely overgrown roots in the lower jaw can cause a lump to form along the bottom edge of the jawbone. Overgrown roots in the upper jaw can block the drainage of tears through the tear duct and cause lumps behind the eyes.

Rabbit teeth have a natural curve as they grow. If the crown of a cheek tooth becomes overgrown it can come into contact with either the inside of the cheek or the edge of the tongue resulting in painful ulcers. These ulcers can be painful enough to cause the pet to stop eating.

CAUSES OF DENTAL DISEASE

* GENETICS - Unfortunately human interference in the breeding of rabbits has often resulted in anatomical changes that can lead to disease. In the case of dental problems, changing the shape of the skull can drastically change how the teeth contact and wear on each other. The most obvious example is the lop-eared rabbit, in which the length of the jaw has been shortened. The changed the jaw structure results in malocclusion of the teeth and ultimately elongated teeth (because they are not being worn down) that must be trimmed or removed. This type of dental problem is usually seen in young rabbits before one year of age and is often first noted in the incisors. However, if left untreated, the cheek teeth will also be affected in due course. There is no cure for this problem other than life-long control and maintenance of the abnormal tooth growth. The ultimate solution is to breed rabbits with normal jaw anatomy.

* TRAUMA - Trauma to the face can result in changes in the jaw or malocclusion of the teeth. If the jaw is broken it may heal in an abnormal position. If the teeth are broken (most typically the incisors) and they grow in at an improper angle, it will throw off the anatomy of the mouth and lead to multiple tooth problems. One of the most common incisor traumas is caused when a tooth breaks off below the gum line as a result of trimming the incisors with dog nail trimmers. (See the section on Treatment for safer methods of trimming incisors). However, accidents do occur and it is essential to get immediate care for you pet should a facial trauma occur to provide the best possible chance for a normal recovery.

* SYSTEMIC DISEASE - Some systemic diseases can result in a change in dental health. For example, diseases that alter calcium levels in the body can cause a change in the bone surrounding the tooth, which will cause the tooth to shift its position and lead to malocclusion. Rabbits too weakened by disease to chew on solid food can develop overgrown and malocclused teeth due to improper wear. It is important for your veterinarian to monitor the dental health of your pet while it is experiencing any serious systemic disorders because dental disease may occur as a secondary problem.

* DENTAL INFECTIONS - Dental infections are not a common cause of dental disease. More often, abscesses of the tooth roots are the result of long term dental problems, particularly where the tooth root has overgrown and resulted in inflammation.

* DIET - *Next to genetics, this is probably the most common cause of dental disease in the pet rabbit. In our modern world, we were trained to believe that a commercial pelleted diet is the best diet for a rabbit. After all, it is convenient, tidy and contains all the nutrients that the rabbit needs. The commercial rabbit diets was originally developed for the “production rabbit,” meant for a short life ending in the meat or fur market, or for laboratory rabbits which also experiences a shorter life span. For these purposes it is an efficient means of growing a rabbit quickly, but is a poor diet for rabbits kept as pets for the full span of their life. The problem is that rabbits were never designed to eat a diet that is essentially already “chewed up” or pulverized. A pellet breaks apart easily in the mouth and there is little work for the teeth to do and thus little wear. In addition, because pellets are a concentrated nutrient source, the VOLUME of food is a fraction of what a rabbit would be eating in the wild and therefore the actual amount of time a rabbit spends chewing in a day is drastically reduced. Both the small volume and composition of an exclusively pelleted diet are both adversely affect proper tooth wear. We do not recommend commercial pellets as a main source of food for any pet rabbit for this reason.

Disease caused by an improper diet may not be evident for many years. Affected rabbits are usually 3 years or older. Dental changes may be very subtle at first, but if the situation is not quickly corrected, advanced dental disease can occur.

SIGNS OF DENTAL DISEASE

There are a variety of signs associated with dental disease ranging from almost undetectable to severe. If the disease is mild, the rabbit may not show any obvious problems and the problem may only be discovered on a routine physical examination. However, most dental problems eventually become painful and the rabbit will give some obvious indications of discomfort or inability to eat properly.

* Anorexia (loss of appetite)- This is a common finding because of the pain of either a tooth spur causing an ulcer of the cheek or tongue, an elongated tooth root or because the teeth are so out of alignment the rabbit can't pick up or chew food. There are many other causes of loss of appetite.

* Being more selective about the food - As rabbits start to develop malocclusion of the teeth or dental pain they may stop eating certain items such as carrots, pellets and occasionally hay. They will continue to eat soft foods like fruits and some leafy greens, but cannot eat the harder foods.

* Dropping food out of the mouth - The rabbit still tries to eat, but can't completely chew the food and some of it falls back out of the mouth.

* Excessive tear production - This is a common sign of dental disease that involves the upper incisors. The tip of the upper incisor root is in close proximity to the tear duct. Inflammation or elongation of the root can partially or totally block the tear duct. The tear gland will still produce tears but they spill over onto the face as opposed to going down the duct. The corners of the eyes appear wet or accumulate a crusty white material that is an accumulation of salt and mucous. Secondary bacterial infections cause inflammation of the tear duct as well as the production of pus.

* Nasal discharge - If the roots of the upper incisors are inflamed or elongated there may be irritation to the sinuses and with resultant nasal drainage. This can be difficult to differentiate from true upper respiratory disease, and it is essential to have a high detail x-ray to aid in the diagnosis.

* Salivating excessively - This can happen because of pain or the inability of the rabbit to properly close its mouth due to overgrown teeth. The saliva accumulates on the fur in the corners of the mouth, the chin and the dewlap. Other causes of excessive salivation include overheating, eating something that has an unpleasant taste, foreign bodies in the mouth and extreme general weakness.

* Tooth Grinding - This is more often seen with abdominal discomfort, but some people have noted that rabbits with dental disease may grind their teeth more frequently. Occasional tooth grinding can be normal, but if it is heard continuously there may be a problem.

* Bulging of the eye - Abscesses of the upper premolars or molars can lead to pressure behind the eye. The eye will be pushed slowly out until the optic nerve is stretched and damaged and the pet loses its sight. Tumors behind the eye can also cause a similar sign.

DIAGNOSING DENTAL DISEASE

* HISTORY– The history of the rabbit may reveal changes in eating habits that indicate dental disease. As I have said many times, it is vitally important that you observe your pet closely and share your observations with your veterinarian.

* PHYSICAL EXAMINATION – Every rabbit should have a thorough mouth examination done at least once a year. It is my opinion that every rabbit should have a mouth examination performed each time it comes into the veterinary clinic. The earlier we can detect dental disease the greater the chances for success of treatment. The examination is usually performed without anesthesia in the healthy pet. There are a number of instruments that can be employed to examine the cheek teeth without discomfort in the conscious pet. In cases where the pet is difficult to handle or where dental disease is difficult to see due to its position, it will be necessary to use sedation for the mouth examination.

In addition to the mouth examination, a complete physical examination is vital to determine any other disease problems that might be present.

* RADIOGRAPHS (X-RAYS) - Rabbits that have dental disease need to have radiographs taken of the skull to determine the extent of the disease and to determine the appropriate treatment approach. Without a radiograph, it is impossible to assess the condition of the tooth roots. Several views of the head need to be taken in order to see all the teeth. It is necessary and also much less stressful to the rabbit to use anesthesia for this diagnostic procedure.

* BLOOD TESTS - If the rabbit is suspected of having concurrent disease that may have lead to the dental disease, your veterinarian will recommend that certain blood tests be performed.

TREATMENT OF DENTAL DISEASE IN RABBITS

The most valuable key to treatment and management of dental disease is EARLY DETECTION. This is why a thorough mouth exam coupled with your keen observations of your pet are critical.

* DIET – A diet full of food items that require chewing is essential. A healthy diet is necessary in the treatment of dental disease to minimize further damage and to attempt to prevent reoccurrence.

* GRINDING/CUTTING OVERGROWN TEETH - Incisors should not be cut with side cutters or dog nail trimmers. Although there are individuals who have employed these methods for years with success, it only takes one occurrence of breaking off an incisor below the gum line that leads to a lifetime of dental problems. It is not worth the risk. Overgrown incisors are best cut with a dental burr or a small grinding attached to a low or high-speed motorized handle. In this way teeth can be trimmed without fear of breakage. This procedure can be performed at a veterinary clinic or by a person experienced in this technique. It is generally performed painlessly and quickly while your pet is awake. Occasionally, a very nervous rabbit is difficult to handle and may have to be sedated for this procedure.

Overgrown cheek teeth are more difficult to trim in the conscious pet. The rabbit has a narrow mouth opening making it difficult to access all areas easily in the conscious pet. It is usually necessary to anesthetize your pet to properly manage all but the mildest cheek tooth overgrowth. The treatment that has been used for years is to simply cut back the overgrown crowns with a bone-cutting instrument. The problem with this treatment in all but the mildest of dental disease is that it does not allow for correction of the alignment of ALL the cheek teeth. It is rare that only one or two teeth are malaligned. Although this procedure can often be done without anesthesia, the likelihood of rapid (4 to 6 weeks) reoccurrence of the overgrowth is high. In addition, some rabbits object vigorously to this procedure and because it is often being performed blindly, there is a possibility of injury to the cheek, gums or tongue. In cases of moderate to severe disease it is preferred to anesthetize the pet and use a dental burr to grind and reshape all the cheek teeth at the same time to encourage proper realignment. This treatment addresses the entire anatomy of the mouth rather than just one or two teeth. In early cases, this treatment may be curative. In chronic or more severe disease, the procedure will need to be repeated, but the length of time between treatments is much longer than with a simple clipping. Your veterinarian can advise you on the best treatment regimen for your pet.

* EXTRACTING TEETH - Extraction of abnormal teeth, either cheek teeth or incisors, is a viable and often more humane option for your pet than frequent trimming. Rabbits can successfully live without their incisors because they can use their prehensile lips to move food into the mouth. Rabbits can also live and eat without one or more cheek teeth. We have helped many rabbits that otherwise would not have been able to survive by removing the abnormal teeth permanently. Diet modifications may have to be made in these cases. Specifics should be discussed with your veterinarian.

* TREATING ABSCESSES – The treatment of abscesses of the face is a topic for an entire column so I will not attempt to go into it here in detail. Suffice it to say that dental disease must be considered anytime a rabbit develops an abscess on the face or jaw and x-rays should be taken to assess the problem. There are many options now available for the treatment of dental abscesses including complete surgical excision, antibiotic bead impregnation, and various injections into the wall of the abscess. Please discuss these options with your veterinarian.

PREVENTION OF DENTAL DISEASE

* DIET - It is obviously not possible to prevent all types of dental disease. Dental problems caused strictly by diet, however, can be avoided. Your rabbit should be fed a diet of unlimited grass hay and a good amount and variety of fresh leafy greens daily. Avoid feeding an exclusive diet of commercial pellets. You can find specific information on the healthy diet of the House Rabbit in our Care of Rabbits handout. In addition offer other items to chew upon such as fresh tree branches (from trees that are NOT sprayed with chemicals), untreated wood pieces and unvarnished, unpainted wicker baskets. Providing a healthy diet will ensure adequate wear of all the teeth. IT IS NEVER TOO LATE TO CONVERT A PET TO A HEALTHY DIET. A natural diet has a myriad of benefits beyond just good teeth; it is literally the foundation for good health.

* EXAMINATIONS AT HOME - Be familiar with the appearance of your pet's teeth. You will only be able to see the incisors, but take a good look at least once a month. Your veterinarian or experienced rabbit friend can help show you how to perform the exam. Report any changes in shape, color or texture of the teeth to your veterinarian as soon as possible.

* VETERINARY EXAMINATIONS - As mentioned, your veterinarian should examine your pet at least once a year. Part of a thorough physical examination on a rabbit is a dental exam. Merely examining the front teeth is not sufficient. Cheek teeth may have early disease that will be missed so the entire mouth needs to be examined.

CONCLUSION

Dental disease is common in the pet rabbit. Diet is the best means of prevention and is essential as well in treatment. Your pet's teeth should be thoroughly examined at least once a year. If your pet does develop dental disease, there is a good possibility it can be controlled effectively if diagnosed early.