Choosing an Animal
Any animal purchase should always begin with research. Several books are available on the market for people interested in keeping snakes. The Internet is also a good source of information but be wary of this source because anyone can publish information on the Internet which means quality control is minimal. The most important aspect of choosing an animal is making sure it is suitable for you to keep. Adult size, longevity, disposition, and ease of maintenance are all crucial factors to consider when you're thinking about buying a snake. Secondly, the animal you choose should be healthy and free of disease. A healthy animal will have good muscle tone, be alert, and have clean skin. Watch out for animals with white powdery flecks on their skin (mites), sunken eyes (mites, other ailments), loose folded skin (dehydration, underweight), fluid/bubbles around the mouth (respiratory illness), and abrasions.
Housing
Ideally, the habitat should be set up before the animal arrives at home. This will make the transition much less stressful for the snake.
Size
The size and dimensions of the tank depend not only on the size of the snake going into it but on the behaviour of the animal. For example, a 1 m long Ball Python (Python regius) does not require as large an enclosure as a 1 m long Pine Snake (Pituophis melanoleucus) because the Ball Python is not as active as the Pine Snake. Also, the height of the cage is an important factor to consider because arboreal (tree dwelling) snakes require tall tanks so that they can climb. However, as a general rule, the cage length should equal the snakes and the width and height should equal half the snake's length. For arboreal snakes the same rules can apply if you make the long measurement the height of the cage instead of the length. Reading about your snake's natural behavior in the wild will provide more insight into how to appropriately house the animal.
Construction
The terrarium should be constructed of sturdy, non-porous, water resistant materials. For most species, an aquarium is ideal because it can be easily cleaned and disinfected. Alternatively, cages can be constructed of fiberglass (usually prefabricated units), melamine (prefab or home made), or plywood (home made, must be sealed). Regardless of the materials used, the cage must be sturdy and secure because snakes are incredible escape artists and will find any weakness in the design of the cage. If you construct your own cage be sure to ventilate it properly to allow cool air to enter the cage and hot air to escape. The most efficient cost effective way to accomplish this is to drill ventilation holes in the back near the bottom (cool air in) and top (hot air out) of the cage.
Heating/Lighting
Many keepers supply heat with heat lamps which also provide light. Under tank heaters can also be useful; however, depending on the substrate in the enclosure, heating may be inefficient. The ideal setup has heat provided by a heat bulb (such as an infrared incandescent bulb) and light provide by a full spectrum fluorescent bulb. Full spectrum light is not a necessity for snakes, but it often helps stimulate appetite and improve the general health of the animal. Regardless of the heat source, there should be a temperature gradient available with a hot basking area and cooler areas to permit the animal to thermoregulate (regulate body temperature). Furthermore, nigh time temperatures should be a few degrees Celsius lower than day time temperatures to ensure health of the animals immune system.
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Substrate and Decorations
The simplest cage design and easiest to maintain has a hide box, water bowl, and newspaper as substrate. Needless to say this is not a very attractive display and is not as stimulating for the animal. Several specialty substrates are available on the market including: Repti-Bark (Zoo-Med), Reptile Bedding (Fluker Laboratories), Desert Blend (ESU Reptile), etc. However, ordinary mulch such as melaleuca, cypress, and eucalyptus mulch can be used as well as aspen shavings. Never use corn cob bedding, vermiculite, pine shavings, or cedar shavings as substrate: Corn cob bedding and vermiculite can cause blockages while pine shaving and cedar shavings cause skin irritation. Wood, rocks and artificial plants can also be used to provide a suitable habitat for your snake and make the cage look attractive. When placing the cage decorations, keep the animal's natural behavior in mind. For example, arboreal snakes should be able to climb and fossorial (burrowing) snakes should be able to burrow. All decorations should be securely fixed in place to prevent accidental injury or death. Finally, keep it simple. An elaborate terrarium may look very pleasing to the eye but it is invariably difficult to maintain.
Feeding
Most snakes that are captive bred feed on rodents (either mice or rats). The food should be offered to the animal dead to prevent unnecessary stress or injury. Some snakes will only accept food if it is moved in front of them while others will readily eat food left in their cage. Ideally, you should be able to place the food in the cage and leave it there for the snake to eat so that it does not associate movement with a meal. This is especially crucial for large snakes such as Burmese Pythons which can mistake an arm for a dinner. Be sure to keep the animal from ingesting any substrate by placing the food on a clean, flat surface such as a rock or a piece of paper. Alternatively, you can feed the snake outside the cage in a separate feeding enclosure that has a clean bottom. Snakes under one year of age are generally fed more frequently than older snakes. However, different snakes have different metabolic rates which determine how quickly their bodies process the food they are given. As a general rule, feed the animal a day or two after it has passed the waste from its last meal. For Colubrids (snakes in the family Colubridae including milk snakes, rat snakes, pine snakes etc.), this may be every 4-7 days while Boids (family Boidae) and Pythonids (family Pythonidae) may only defecate (pass waste) every 7-14 days. Remember, in nature, these animals feed much less frequently than once a week. Over feeding leads to obese, sluggish, unhealthy animals that invariable die at a younger age than lean healthy animals.
Problem Feeders
There are several reasons why snakes will refuse to eat. However, the typical reasons are due to stress or improper environmental conditions. Any snake that is not eating should not be handled and disturbance should be kept to a minimum to reduce stress. Secondly, all environmental conditions including humidity, temperature, and lighting should be checked to make sure they are within the appropriate range. Temperature is particularly critical because snakes are ectothermic (require environmental heat to stay warm). If the temperature is consistently too low or there is too much of a fluctuation in temperature, the snake will not eat because its body will be unable to digest the meal. Too much heat will also cause a snake to go off its food. Other problems may be associated with the snake�s behavior and instincts. For example, arboreal snakes often will not feed unless they are off the ground. Nocturnal species prefer to feed in the early evening or morning. Ball Pythons, often refuse to eat unless they are provided with a suitable hiding place and their food is warmed up. This demonstrates that knowing about the captive care and natural history of your particular species is very important when trying to solve a feeding problem. If the snake still refuses to eat after several weeks of proper environmental conditions, reduced stresses, and different approaches to feeding, seek medical help. Make sure you find a veterinarian with experience. A good veterinarian will check the animals respiratory system, feces, and possibly blood to assess its condition.
Cleaning
Feces should be removed - along with surrounding substrate - as soon as they are discovered. A thorough cleaning of the cage and contents should occur every 4-6 months depending on the number of animals in the enclosure and the species you are keeping. Thorough cleaning includes removal and replacement of all substrate and washing the enclosure, rocks, branches, and any other decorations with dilute bleach and water (1:30 bleach to water ratio). Be sure to rinse thoroughly with water after disinfecting.
Handling
General Rules
Never put snakes near your face. This is especially true of Boas and Pythons because these animals have heat sensitive scales/pits on their lips. When they detect the warmth of your breath, you may induce a strike.
Always support the snake's body so that it feels secure. This will help keep the snake calm.
Do not pinch, squeeze, poke or otherwise maliciously malign the snake you are handling. Those is, unless you are a particularly cruel person and wish to get bitten.
Never handle a snake larger than 3 meters (10 feet) alone.
Always wash your hands before and after handling a snake to prevent passage of disease and bacteria from you to the snake and vice versa. Furthermore, if your hands smell like snake food, you will end up being mistaken for dinner!
Young Snakes
Any young snake is naturally afraid of large moving objects - this includes you. When you purchase a young snake, you will have great success if you are patient and consider the pet�s perspective. Your patience will be critical in the first 1 to 2 months because you will have to refrain from handling the animal to prevent it from getting too stressed. Your only interaction with the animal at this time should be for cleaning, feeding, and providing fresh water. Do not worry if you cannot see your snake. Many young snakes will remain hidden for days because in nature, if they stay in the open, they are eaten by predators. Since the behavior of these reptiles is primarily instinctual, snakes make no distinction between captivity and the wild. Do not uncover these animals "to check" on them. They will begin to emerge periodically and you will be able "to check" on them at these times. When the time comes to handle your young snake, reach in and pick it up gently and confidently without hesitation. If you hesitate, the animal may become alarmed and defensive which may lead to getting bitten. However, this is not really a problem as your snake is small and harmless. The sooner you experience a bite the better because you will realize that it is not painful and never results in anything serious. After picking the snake up, let it crawl through your hands while you control the direction it takes to prevent it from escaping. Initially, you should only have the snake out for 10-15 minutes a day. Eventually, you will be able to have the snake out for longer periods of time provided it does not get too cool. As the snake ages, it will be easier to manage because it will have become used to your presence and you will have become a better handler. Note: Always give a snake 24 - 48 hours of rest without handling after feeding. Full snakes will not hesitate to return their latest meal to its provider ;-)
Older Snakes
Older snakes can be handled after a few weeks of acclimatization. The same rules hold true for these animals as with younger snakes when picking them up. Pick them up confidently and gently without hesitation. Larger snakes can be more difficult to control as there is more snake to deal with. The secret is to prevent your hands from "getting tied up" by the snake; that is, always make sure you have a hand that you can free to gain control of the snake as it's crawling. A smooth hand-over hand motion usually works best with medium sized snakes while large snakes usually have to have part of their body supported by your shoulders if your standing and by your lap if your sitting. Always make sure the snake is well supported and secure. If the snake feels like it may fall, it will be much more difficult to control and may become agitated.
Conclusions
Snakes are generally an easy to manage pet provided you take the time to learn about their care and maintenance before you bring the animal home. When you take the time to learn about your snake, you will be able to appreciate its behavior and beauty as well as provide for it properly. You can also make an informed decision about which species is suited to your lifestyle so that you can enjoy the animal will enjoy a happy and healthy life in your care.
